Research Log: Page 14
Extracted posts from the KLOV Big Blue thread. View original page 14 on KLOV ↗
Post #261 — SuperGunGuru, Aug 15, 2016
- sslakkerr said: I’ve joined the club!
- Picked up an original SF2CE dynamo big blue cabinet. Even has the strange Street Fighter 3 dynamo label that I’ve read others have also found. Also got what I had thought was going to be a big blue converted to Golden Tee, but turned out to be Punisher.
- I noticed a few differences between these cabs, which I’ll list below and add some quick photos.
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- Punisher sidewalls are laminated black inside and out, CE is blue
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- the back door is much taller on Punisher, allowing for better access to the monitor
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- the outer extended front side walls are not as tall on Punisher
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- the power supply on Punisher uses a remote switch located on top of the cab, while CE has an access hole in the lower right of the cabinet to reach the button on the PS
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- Punisher monitor mounts have notches to fit left or right hand frame rails, CE only has the right hand notches (all of my k7000s are left handed, viewed from back of tube)
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- Punisher control panel wood is an outline frame, with basically a huge opening in the middle. CE has individual cut outs for the joysticks and button arrays
- Other things differ slightly, like the speaker grill lip bend angles and the control panel lip angle to the monitor glass are sharper on Punisher.
- Figured I would just put this info out here, maybe it will help somebody some day. Click to expand…
Post #262 — 34k, Aug 16, 2016
- acblunden2 said: Anyone know the t-molding slot size dimension for the Capcom Big Blue cab? Is it the same size as the Gen 1 just in a different color? Click to expand…
Serial/tag references:
Gen 1— ion for the Capcom Big Blue cab? Is it the same size as the Gen 1 just in a different color? Click to expand…
Post #263 — Meph, Aug 16, 2016
- I used 3/4 on both my cabs. Not sure which cab you are installing on but they should all be 3/4.
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Images:
Post #264 — acblunden2, Aug 16, 2016
- I have one Q-sound cab which was originally a SFA2 cab. I have one Gen-1 SF2CE cab. Restoring them both for my collection.
- I know the width is 3/4”. But I don’t know what the barb size is. In any case, I bought digital calipers from Harbor Freight to take the guess work out of it and for other purposes.
Post #265 — SillyB, Oct 31, 2016
- I’m finally getting around to putting my NOS diamond plate CPO on my Big Blue. It had several layers of old conversion CPOs on it so it looked nice and flat but after pulling them all off I see that the joystick mounting plates aren’t perfectly flush. Do you guys put a layer under the CPO to make it even? What was the original factory installation?
Images:
Post #266 — DuffCon, Nov 13, 2016
- I have a “wanted” post, but thought I’d throw this in here to:
- I’m in search of a reasonably-priced decent-shape big blue. (aren’t we all)
Post #267 — NoAffinity, Nov 13, 2016
- SillyB said: I’m finally getting around to putting my NOS diamond plate CPO on my Big Blue. It had several layers of old conversion CPOs on it so it looked nice and flat but after pulling them all off I see that the joystick mounting plates aren’t perfectly flush. Do you guys put a layer under the CPO to make it even? What was the original factory installation? Click to expand…
Post #268 — acblunden2, Nov 14, 2016
- Cleanly is not a word that should be used with removing overlays off CP’s. It is quite an effort. First, you’ll need a heat gun and pliers to pull off the material. Then you are left with glue residue. You’ll need to dissolve that with some sort solvent.
- If you are lucky, the CPO’s were put on poorly and therefore are easily removed. If you are unlucky, they are all expertly applied. You are looking at a tedious 2+ hour effort, if you are lucky. Good news is the tools and materials are cheap:
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- Heat gun from Harbor Freight is less than $10
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- Pliers, you should have already
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- Rubber gloves
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- Rags
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- Solvent
Post #269 — arcadeaction, Nov 14, 2016
- CPO removal: You might try setting a metal control panel out in the sun for a couple hours until the metal is too hot to touch. Then using gloves, if need be, begin to remove the CPO outside in the sun so that it stays warm. This has worked great for me. Alternatively, if you have an old grill you no longer use for cooking you could probably bake it a bit on low heat also.
Post #270 — NoAffinity, Nov 14, 2016
- acblunden2 said: Cleanly is not a word that should be used with removing overlays off CP’s. It is quite an effort. First, you’ll need a heat gun and pliers to pull off the material. Then you are left with glue residue. You’ll need to dissolve that with some sort solvent.
- If you are lucky, the CPO’s were put on poorly and therefore are easily removed. If you are unlucky, they are all expertly applied. You are looking at a tedious 2+ hour effort, if you are lucky. Good news is the tools and materials are cheap:
-
- Heat gun from Harbor Freight is less than $10
-
- Pliers, you should have already
-
- Rubber gloves
-
- Rags
-
- Solvent Click to expand…
Post #271 — acblunden2, Nov 14, 2016
- Oh, you need a good putty knife too. I forget what I used to get rid of the residue. I can tell you this weekend though. I think it was just good old paint thinner.
- If you are looking to save the original CPO, that is probably a pipe dream. The heat gun will likely kill what is left of it. Unless you plan on using some archeological restoration process, best to just replace it.
Post #272 — NoAffinity, Nov 15, 2016
- acblunden2 said: Oh, you need a good putty knife too. I forget what I used to get rid of the residue. I can tell you this weekend though. I think it was just good old paint thinner.
- If you are looking to save the original CPO, that is probably a pipe dream. The heat gun will likely kill what is left of it. Unless you plan on using some archeological restoration process, best to just replace it. Click to expand…
Post #273 — SillyB, Nov 15, 2016
- I use a heat gun and a plastic putty knife to pull the CPO off, the key is to work slowly heating and lifting small sections to get them completely off. If you rush it you get into trouble. Then acetone or goof off to get rid of the residue with the same scraper or some scotch brite pads and a bunch of rags.
Post #274 — DuffCon, Nov 15, 2016
- Goo gone with angle grinder wire brush worked perfectly for me. This is assuming the CPO is on a metal pannel
Post #275 — acblunden2, Nov 15, 2016
- NoAffinity said: No, definitely not trying to save the current CPO. It’s got a few nicks in it, enough that I’m starting to think about investing this effort. If you would post up what you used to get rid of the residue, it would be much appreciated. Click to expand…
Post #276 — NoAffinity, Jan 1, 2017
- I don’t think I ever posted up pics of my big blue. It’s a SSF2 (details in my sig). Love this old cab.
- Just had the K7193 capped by Arcade Buffett, and it’s never looked so good. Colors are bright and crisp like they never have been as long as I’ve owned it. The convergence needs some minor attention…will be tackling that as soon as I get my TPG which should be en route.
Images:
Post #277 — Zero238, Jan 1, 2017
- Does anyone know if the giant banner from the tournament battle was ever scanned?
Post #278 — KidVidiot, Jan 1, 2017
- balltop sticks on a big blue…shudder
Post #279 — NoAffinity, Jan 2, 2017
- KidVidiot said: balltop sticks on a big blue…shudder Click to expand…